Love-Hate of a Solo Girl Travel to India

One of my fellow female backpackers was traveling to India for the second time and she was describing all the ‘weird’ things. Like that one time an Indian man was touching and rubbing her toe on a train. And many other obscure little incidents. ‘So why are you going back? After telling me all this’ – I asked. ‘India is a love-hate thing‘ – she said. – It’s sometimes disgusting and hard to understand, but there’s something about it and you want to come back‘. I couldn’t say it better.

I definitely can’t claim that I know it all about India. It’s huge and diverse, and I spent there only few weeks and was in Northern India only (Delhi, Agra and Rishikesh). But here’s my experience.


Yes, it’s dirty! Filthy cows walk even on big streets in the capital. Lot’s of beggars. Lots of slums and street crime. So traveling solo you have to be on guard ALL the time, and it’s ugh exhausting!


There’re LOTS of slums


A dump on the street, right next to the beautiful Lotus Temple in Delhi


Kids begging on the streets

I guess, the biggest concern for a girl to go solo to India is safety. And yes, the statistics are bad and incidents are horrific. Yes, you always feel sticky pervert-y glances (stares!) of men. And they take pictures of you. And they try to touch you. This harassment is a big issue in the society and they try to tackle it, always dividing men and women when possible. All metro trains in Delhi are equipped with women-only carts, and it’s strictly enforced. Crazily, you have to pass thru a metal detector/ pat down EVERY time you enter subway or a even a supermarket (imagine that in peak hours in a 18-million people Delhi!). So there’re separate lines for men and women.

You will MOST likely get a food poisoning in India. You can get it even eating at good restaurants. I got it from home-cooked food (must be the water). Being sick on the road sucks, especially when you’re traveling solo and have to take care of yourself…yourself.

And in general, many things seem backward and uncomfortable.


Typical dorm room of a student (a guy)


My couchsurfer’s room (girl)


India has rich history and culture, and it’s very very interesting to plunge into that. I’m not going to describe Indian beauty (okay, maybe just one picture with Taj Mahal:). I’ll just speculate, how to try bringing the ‘love’ to the foreground.

I travel for people. Through them I learn about the real culture, the real essence of a country. Particularly in case with India I advise to have someone local you ‘know’ (or better staying with) before your arrival. Couchsurfing has always been my favorite way to go – gives you some ‘local base’, community, sense of attachment. I was looking particularly to be hosted by girls, and there’re actively hosting female couchsurfers in India. Go for it!

My first girl couchsurfer was very young and progressive-thinking lady. Especially when it came down to ‘your vagina is your property’ statements! :) It was very interesting to get to know such a ‘girl power!’ Indian woman.

Then I was hosted by a married couple of really awesome, super chill and adventure-loving people. The moment I walked in their beautiful house (in a gated community! it’s a big thing in India), I learnt it was a birthday party of my host’s sister. Drinks and cake, yay! And lots of really chill friends! I needed it to ‘relax into’ India, trust it and let it be.


Chilling among ancient ruins with my couchsurfers (beer with a view:)

Once your stomach goes through its first shock, the food is actually amazing! I am always curious about the local cuisines, so my ‘girl power!’ couchsurfer gave me a workshop on Indian cooking and introduction to basic Indian spices. Girl time!:)

Screen Shot 2015-08-30 at 4.31.35 PMOf course you go out by yourself as well. Just like everywhere, you need common sense. My couchsurfer’s husband also suggested, that perhaps traveling as a solo girl in India you should do a little more planning ahead. I hardy ever know my plan for the next day, I like to see how it goes. So because of this ‘let’s see’ and also chasing the cheapest transportation ways, I ended up feeling unsafe twice: being dropped off the bus at night in the middle of nowhere and in the dark morning on a train station trying to find the cheapest local 3rd-class train to Agra. I assume this advise isn’t a bad one. At least DEFINITELY have a plan B and C, and be aware of your surroundings.

I also realized, that subconsciously I was always trying to get closer to women, get under their ‘wing’ in uncertain situations. Sit next to them during a bus ride. Address the wife rather than a husband. Ask women for directions and walk with them. I felt some sort of camaraderie, no joking! They KNOW about unsafety and harassment, and they stick together!

And when I got tired of people taking pictures of me, I started coming up to them myself, asking if I may please take a picture with THEM:)


I still ended up doing pretty much everything, what I always do when I backpack. Travel with cheap local transport. Mingle with the locals. Haggled. Ate de-li-cious street food. Talked to strangers. Didn’t buy any souvenirs. Walked around after dark. Hiked. Went on life-threatening rickshaw rides:)

I didn’t want to shut down and miss the ‘love’, while focusing in the ‘hate’. Yes, the dirt and buttery looks are there, and they are on the surface. However, India has many facets and depths. You have to learn to embrace certain things, surround yourself with a safe community when possible and have a plan B. The rest are the pleasures and responsibilities of backpacking.

The Indian Ying-Yang of love-hate is something that keeps people wondering and coming back to this country! I did not travel across the world to miss moments like this:)





  1. Hello Lena!! Congratulations! One, for your beautiful photos, and two, for your courage to be travelling solo – I often do it by myself but I am aware that lots of people would feel unconfortable with it, specially in an exotic place like India. I was there for a month or so and enjoyed it, besides of the not-so-easy parts of travelling around undeveloped countries. I really liked your blog! :)

    • Thank you Tatiana!! Exactly, most challenges are (of traveling in less developed countries) are all pretty much the same… But I guess that what makes it interesting and ‘spicy':)

  2. Wow! I love how you chose to take a picture with them! Thats awesome!

  3. Brings back a lot of memories – mostly good

  4. Wow, great read! Feeling inspired to start planning a trip to India now… :)

  5. Hi Lena, interesting post! I am getting used to the looks and come-ons in South America but it is exhausting to be on your guard all the time! But you’re right -, I still love it here, there is no such thing as a perfect place, we sometimes have to take the rough with the smooth :)

  6. I am hoping to go to India this year and your article just comes at the right time ;) Can you tell me which place is a good start for a first time visit^^

    • I haven’t been in too many places, but I certainly know where I would like to explore more. India is so huge, so depending on your time, you might wanna decide to explore only the South or the north. In the North I’d go to Delhi (you’ll probably fly there anyway), if you’re into yoga and such – try Rishikesh. Also the Himalayas! I really want to go to the place where Dalai Lama lives, maybe go to his “lecture” or so…

  7. Smart advice about having a backup backup plan! India was never really high on my travel list, but as more women bloggers go and share their experiences, it’s starting to rise up there! I also like that you started taking pictures with them. That’s going to be my plan in the future too. :)

    • Somehow I feel you can’t “force” India onto yourself, esp as a solo girl backpacker. I initially chickened out and went to Nepal first, which KINDA prepared me for India:):) But if you’re reading and seeing pics and feel inspired – India is calling then!!

  8. I loved to hear that you enjoyed your trip. Love your pictures too. I hope you had so much fun in India. I really miss those days and food as well.

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